Behind the Seams: What Happens to Fashion's Unsuccessful Designs?

Design failure is a strong phrase. 'Unsuccessful Design' on the other hand, leads us to believe that whatever happened.. is just a blip in the much greater brand picture. 

As a designer, I have fallen foul of my own ego and questioned why some of my designs haven't hit the mark dead on and lie there, like a fish flapping around in an ever decreasing puddle.

There have been real moments of scratching my head in frustration. Closely watching hawk-eyed at what is happening in trending film and tv, taking note of crowd celebrity crushes and waning economic wallet shrinkages due to crises and seeing exploding social media trends and designed accordingly...picking up the obvious breadcrumbs believing I have found the Willy Wonka golden ticket with my unique design ideas. Then the market changes and I crash and burn head on, in a tumultuous disappointment tower of smoke and fire (ok a bit over the top). 

But you know where I am going with this.

When you start a business on a shoe string and every penny counts and you still need to be creative and imagine new designs and not bore your customers to death with minimalist and safe looks all the time because they are watching their pennies and are risk adverse in their wardrobes...(phew....taking a breath!).....you just have to bite the bullet, risk it for a biscuit and think, if it doesn't work out, how can I change it? Can I re-work it? Or is all lost and I need to melt it down and take the hit? (Then crawl back to the drawing board). 

Many big brands have planned 'design disaster' strategies or shall we call them resilience strategies, on how to cope with failures (erm ..sorry!) 'non-successful' designs.

So, now to the 21st Century. 

We have entered a critical time in our earth's industrialisation and technology race and the question is, where the hell do the unsuccessful designs go when they have been physically made (from a sustainability point of view) and once they have  entered the market and been ill-recieved in the moment, how does this affect a brands bottom line?

Below are some of my findings on fashion revival, renewal and redefining the undefinable.

 

1. Reworking and Refining the Design

Designs that fail to make a mark in the market are often revisited and refined. By tweaking certain aspects—whether it’s the fabric, silhouette, color palette, or materials used—designers can give these creations a second chance.

Example: Prada’s Nylon Bags

In the 1980s, Prada introduced nylon bags that were initially overlooked due to their unconventional use of material for luxury goods. However, the design was refined and relaunched in the 1990s with additional stylistic elements. It eventually became one of the brand’s iconic lines, proving that sometimes all a design needs is a bit of reworking.


2. Repurposing in Future Collections

Designers frequently archive unused or unsuccessful pieces and draw inspiration from them for future collections. This can involve integrating elements of a failed design into new trends or adapting it to meet changing consumer preferences.

Example: Alexander McQueen

McQueen was known to revisit his archives for ideas. Designs or concepts that didn’t land initially often found new life in subsequent collections, becoming critical successes when reinterpreted to align with fresh themes or trends.

3. Limited-Edition or Niche Marketing

When a design doesn’t appeal to the mass market, it may still find value as a niche or limited-edition item. This approach creates exclusivity and can cater to a small but dedicated group of consumers who appreciate the uniqueness of the design.

Example: Jewelry by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.

Peretti’s unconventional bone cuff bracelet initially struggled to gain traction when she released it through Tiffany in 1974 so it took a back seat, but it was later repositioned as an exclusive statement piece in 2024 and re-released as part of their "With Love, Since 1837". Its niche appeal eventually turned it into a beloved classic. 

 


4. Selling in Alternative Markets

Designs that don’t fit the primary audience of a brand can be sold in secondary markets, such as outlet stores, sample sales, or pop-up shops. This ensures the designs are not wasted while still generating revenue.

Example: High-Street Fashion Brands

Brands like Zara and H&M regularly reallocate pieces that don’t perform well in flagship stores to outlets or other regions where styles and preferences might align better. Seen here is Lefties, a European brand that specifically built their inital business on the cast offs of Zara.

 

5. Upcycling and Sustainability

With sustainability becoming a significant focus in the fashion industry, designers often repurpose failed designs into new products. This approach not only reduces waste but also aligns with growing consumer interest in eco-conscious fashion.

Example: Stella McCartney

A leader in sustainable fashion, McCartney has been known to repurpose unsold items into new creations or use them as materials for entirely new collections, avoiding waste while creating innovative designs.


6. Using as Art or Exhibits

When designs are too experimental for commercial success, they may find a home in fashion exhibitions, museums, or as statement pieces for editorial photoshoots. Such designs serve as a testament to the designer's creativity and innovation.

Example: Viktor & Rolf

Known for their avant-garde designs, Viktor & Rolf have showcased collections that were never intended for commercial markets in galleries and exhibitions. These works elevate fashion to an art form, gaining critical acclaim even if they don't achieve financial success.

7. Learning and Moving On

Sometimes, a failed design simply becomes a lesson. Designers analyze why the creation didn’t succeed—be it timing, pricing, or consumer preferences—and use these insights to guide their future endeavors.

Example: Burberry’s Pattern Redesign

When Burberry reintroduced its iconic plaid in the early 2000s, it briefly became overexposed and associated with counterfeit markets. While the initial relaunch failed, Burberry’s creative team took the lessons learned and successfully repositioned the pattern as a high-fashion staple in subsequent campaigns.


Why Some Designs Don’t Succeed

Mismatched Timing: A design ahead of its time may not resonate with current consumer tastes.

High Pricing: Luxurious items priced too high for their perceived value often fail in competitive markets.

Poor Marketing: A lack of compelling storytelling can prevent a design from capturing consumer interest.

Cultural Disconnect: Designs that don’t align with the values or aesthetic preferences of the target audience often struggle.

Market Oversaturation: Launching a design in an already saturated niche can make it difficult to stand out.


Final Thoughts

Fashion design is a complex process of creativity, strategy, and adaptability. Designs that fail to make an initial impact are not necessarily destined for obscurity. Whether through reworking, repurposing, or leveraging as art, fashion designers and jewellers ensure that even their so-called "failures" have a purpose.

History shows that what might seem unsuccessful today could become iconic tomorrow, proving that no design is ever truly wasted.

UP NEXT:

In my next blog, I look at four specific top luxury brands who will never leave any of their 'off piste' designs in market and what they do to protect themselves from idea theft. 

Back to blog